Greenhouse

After the success we had with the vegetable plots in our first year, in late summer of 2007 we decided the next step would be to get ourselves a greenhouse.
We used it for the first time properly in 2008. It was used mainly for salad ingredients, tomato's, cucumbers, lettuce and herbs. We have come along way since then, now we have it packed with all kinds of veg.

Blog 2011

The greenhouse is full with seedlings waiting to transplant, a variety of Peppers - Chilli Pepper Hot Mix, Habenero, Romano and Sweet Peppers (california wonder). We also have Cucumber (telegraph), Tomato (Gardeners delight and Alicante) and Melon.

This past weekend (16th April) we made a cold frame to grow the Lettuce, Spring Onion and Radish.

We've planted the Lettuce in the cold frame and it is doing really well but the Spring Onions don't seem to be doing so well in their, it must be too hot for them. Planted a few Radish in their also, they seem to like it and are growing well. Maybe have to plant the Spring Onions outside in a little plot of their own.

Today (23rd April) planted the Tomato, Cucumber and Melon plants in the greenhouse borders, they are doing well. Put string up ready for them to grow up, much easier to that when they are only small plants, the you can just wind them round as they grow. Waiting on the Peppers to get a little bit bigger before transplanting them into the borders and will plant a few in tubs too. Habenero's are growing but they are not very big plants, quite small in comparison to the Chilli and Sweet Pepper's.

Wow the lettuce are getting really big (9th May), not far off picking. Really pleased with them. The best we have ever done with them, didn't grow these from seed, bought plants. See if we have as much success with them when growing the next ones from seed, hopefully we will as they seem to love the cold frame, they are nice and snug in it, they really love the heat.

Picked a few lettuce, they are delicious. Notice yesterday (18th May) when I picked one, that there were a couple of very tiny black slugs on the leaves. So will have to have a good look in the cold frame tomorrow to see if I can find any more and get rid of them before thay get chance to eat any lettuce. Tomato plants  I planted in the borders are doing well have their first flowers on them and really looking quite strong. Planted the Peppers in the borders last week, they are doing ok. Habenero Peppers are still quite small, think I'm going to plant them in pots soon.

Planted (28th May) all the peppers in pots and keeping them in the greenhouse for now. Cucumber is coming along quite well now.

The Tomatoes have grown a lot and have got a couple of trusses of flowers on them.

Today (10th June) put a few tubs of Pepper plants outside to harden off, still got plenty in the greenhouse. Got a couple of flowers on the Melon. Got a few tomatoes coming too. Some of the Peppers are starting to flower.

Everything is doing well, have lots of Tomatoes, none that are red as of yet but they are looking good. There are quite a few flowers on the Melon now and looks like the start of a Melon forming. Peppers are still budded up. Sown some Little Gem Lettuce seeds a couple of weeks ago in trays, now they are big enough (5th July), planted them in the greenhouse borders and some in tubs outside. Don't know whats the matter with the Cucumber, it seems to be struggling again this year. Last year it didn't do very well and this year it looks the same, not sure if it might get too much sun on it as the leaves are pale and crispy. Tried to shade it a bit see if that helps, but the leaves at the top are nice and green, just the lower leaves not good. Haven't had any flowers on it yet though. The Pepper plants in the tubs are outside now, and put a few in the cold frame. They seem to be doing the best in the cold frame, they seem to like it hot!! Lots of flowers on them but no peppers as of yet but won't be long before we get some.

Tomato plants are loaded with fruit and noticed today (26th July) one is starting to turn to red very slighty. Melon is doing great, the one fruit at the bottom dropped off but there is another one on the top which is getting quite big, need to try and support it before it gets too heavy. Really chuffed with it. Cucumber is looking much better since its been shaded, actually got abour 3 or 4 Cucmbers on it although they are very tiny at the moment. Ramona Pepper has about 6 peppers on it. Sweet Peppers and Chilli Peppers have a got a few tiny peppers on also but they seem to be doing much better in the cold frame.

Opened the greenhouse this morning (7th Aug) only to find that the all the leaves on the Melon had gone limp!! It looked normal yesterday, gave it a drink to see if that was what it needed, but came down later in the day and it was still looking grim.

Still the Melon is limp and the leaves are starting to die ( 14th Aug), thats a bit disappointing as it was doing so well. Think it might be due to bateria in the soil maybe, but not sure. On the bright side, we managed to get a bigger Melon this year than last, so maybe next year we will get one to ripen!!

Have an abundance of Tomatoes (24th Aug), they seem rather large this year for cherry Tomatoes!! Alicante are nice and big too, they are all ripening up now, we have picked quite a few. Ramano Peppers are looking good, nearly ready to pick, just need them to ripen a little bit longer. Still fighting with the cucmber, the fruit that were on, keep dropping off, so not done well with that. It never really picked up completely, better luck next year. Got lots of flowers on the Habenero Peppers in the cold frame, they seem to be slower growing than the others. The fruit on the Ramano and Sweet Peppers are pretty big, not far off picking, but the Habenero's are still in flower, maybe a tiny Pepper forming here and there but they look healthy. Had loads of lettuce, Little Gems are delicious, nice and crispy, they did well in the greenhouse and outside too. Still got a few growing, to keep us in Lettuce for a couple of weeks!!

Still picking lots of Tomatoes ( 19th Sept), and still lots on. Finally the Sweet Peppers are starting to turn red and so too are the Chilli Peppers!! Nothing came of the Cucumber plant.

This past weekend (2nd Oct) it has been lovely, more like summer than October and its doing wonders for the remainder of the Tomatoes, they are all coloring up nicely and the Peppers too, the Romano Peppers are starting to turn also and that is a first for us!! We could do with this warm spell for a couple of more weeks, that would be nice. Moved most of the Peppers from the cold frame into the greenhouse, just incase it gets cold, they are doing well. Habenaro Peppers are coming along nicely now, although they were slow starters, only thing is if the weather turns cold soon, it will kill them before they are ripe.  

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Growing Tomatoes

Tomatoes can be grown indoors and out. If growing outdoors they will need a sheltered spot with plenty of sunshine and protection from wind.

Sow seeds indoors in February to April either in pots or trays of seed compost. Sow thinly, covering them with a fine layer of compost and firm gently. Water well and cover with a propagator lid or clear plastic polythene bag. Place in a well lit position on a windowsill or in the greenhouse to germinate. Make sure to keep the compost moist. Seedlings will appear in 7-14 days. As soon as the seedling appear remove the cover.

In about 8 weeks the seedlings should be large enough to prick out and transplant into individual pots. When transplanting be careful not to damge the seedlings, hold them carefully by their leaves and gently lever out with a dibber. Fill a 3in pot with compost and make a hole in the centre with your finger. Carefully lower in the seedling. Firm gently and make sure the roots are covered and water.

When the first trusses (branch of flowers) has appeared tomatoes are ready to plant in greenhouse borders, grow bags or  large pots. Note: outside, stand plants outside in the daytime for about a week and bring back in at night to avoid frosts. This will acclimatise the plants to the cooler growing conditions. Use string or insert a cane next to each plant for support when growing. Secure the plant to the frame as it grows, tie the tomato to the cane or gently twist round the string about every 4in.f growing

As the tomato plants grow the branches develop extra shoots that grow in the leaf joints, these side shoots must be broken off. When four or five trusses have formed pinch out the growing tip. Doing this will ensure that all the plants energy goes into producing fruit. Water plants daily and once flowers have started to appear, feed with tomato fertiliser.

Harvest fruits as the colour changes, this will hasten the ripening of the remainder of the crop. If you have a glut at the end of the growing season, place them in a kitchen drawer with a ripe banana to encourage them to ripen. Alternatively use for making chutney.

Planting Marigolds in greenhouse borders in between plants can help deter greenfly and blackfly.

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Growing Peppers

Peppers, both Chillie varieties and Sweet Peppers can be grown indoors in a greenhouse or outdoors in a warm sunny sheltered spot.  

Sow seeds thinly in pots or trays of seed compost and cover with a fine layer of compost. Firm gently and keep moist. Cover them with a propagator lid or clear ploythen bag. Place in a well lit position on a windowsill or in the greenhouse. Seedlings usually appear in 7-21 days.

As soon as the seedlings appear remove cover. Ensure the compost does not dry out, keep moist.

When seedlings are about 2cm tall transplant them into individual pots. Carefully loosen the compost, with as little root disturbance as possible. Gently hold a leaf and lift, while levering from beneath the roots with a dibber. Fill a 3in pot with compost and make a hole in the centre with your finger, lower the seedling in, until the leaves are just above the surface of the compost. Frim gently and water. Keep plants in a light place, on a windowsill or in the greenhouse.

Transplant to pots, grow bags or greenhouse borders in May to June. For outdooor crops stand outside for a few days late May (avoid frosts). Transplant to a sunny sheltered spot outside. Support plants by using string or insert a cane next to each plant. Secure plant to the frame as it grows, tie to the cane or gently twist around the string. 

When plants are about 12in tall pinch out the growing tip to encourage branching. Keep plants moist and weed free. In hot weather you may need to water twice a day, especially if in a hot greenhouse. These plants are very thirsty and dry compost will quickly lead to a check in growth. 

Once flowers have formed apply a liquid feed, high in potash, such as tomato fertiliser every 2-3 weeks.

Harvest fruits using scissors or a sharp knife between July and September. Chilli Peppers can be picked green or left longer to turn red.

Before autumn frosts, cut down the plants completly and hang the branches upside, this will help the fruit to continue to mature. 

Note: Outdoor crops will produce a later and smaller crop.

Chillie Varieties

Chillies are becoming more popular and there are so many different varieties to choose, they range from the very mild varieties to the blistering hot, so there is sure to be one to suit every taste. They are not only packed full of vitamins but they also trigger feel good endorphins!!

The traditional heat rating for different Chillies is based on the Scoville Scale. This scale was introduced by Wilbur Scoville in 1912 on the simple basis of dilution. The score was calculated by seeing how many parts of sugar water had to be added to one part ground chilli before the burn could no longer be detected by the panel of tasters. A mild chilli is about 1,000 SHU (Scoville Heat Units) but some varieties can hit more than a million SHU!!

Big Jim - This plant is compact, reaching about 60cm, so is ideal for containers. This plant originates from New Mexico and holds the record for the largest chilli pods, which can reach 30cm. Heat - It is a mild chilli, 500 to 2,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Ventura (poblano variety) - Fruits grow on tall, spreading plants. It has a flavour that is similar to a green pepper's but richer with a mild heat. They are good for stuffing, adding to salads or stews. Heat - 1,500 Scoville Heat Units.

Joe E Parker (New Mexican variety) - This is an extremely productive plant bearing mild fruits 15-20cm long. It has a crisp thick skin which makes it ideal for roasting and stuffing. In New Mexico this is a common commercial chilli. Heat - 1,500 to 3,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Guajillo - This plant does best when it is grown outdoors after the last frosts, the chillies reach 10cm in length. It is one of the hotter, large podded chillies and has a mild flavour similar to a jalapeno.  Heat - 2,500 to 5,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Santa Fe Grande - Plants reach 60cm, maturing 75 days after transplanting, with a generous crop. The fruits of this plant are usually harvested yellow. It is a great cooking variety from the USA with a medium hot sweet flavour. Heat - 5,000 to 8,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Cherry Bomb - Fruits of this plant are early and prolific, they mature on small plants in around 60 days. This is another variety from the USA and is hotter than the normal cherry type. These chillies have a lovely flavour with thick flesh. Heat - 6,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Hungarian Hot Wax - This is one of the easiest chillies to grow, the fruits are often picked while a yellow waxy colour but the fruits can be left on to ripen to red. It has a crisp flesh and is a versatile cooking chilli.  Heat - 5,000 to 9,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Telica (jalapeno variety) - This plant will fruit continuously throughout the growing season, producing chillies approx 7cm long. It has a punchy flavour, originating form Mexico. It is a favourite in the USA for hot pepper eating contests. Heat - 5,000 to 10,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Pimiento Padron - These are a regular in tapas bars but they are a bit of a tasting lottery. If the fruits are picked early around one in thirty will knock your socks off but it is impossible to know how hot it is until you eat it. But at maturity these chillies are always hot!! Heat - 1,000 to 12,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Serrano - Hardier than most chillies, Serrano will over winter more easily than other types. Make a traditional salsa with this Mexican variety but be warned, depending on the plant, these chillies can be searingly hot!! Heat - 8,000 to 22,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Numex Twilight - Each shrub like bush can grow to a 1m tall, covered with hundreds of small, upright frutis less than 2cm in length. These can be used as edible or ornamental plants with dark foilage and purple flowers followed by medium-hot fruits that turn yellow, orange and finally red. Heat - 30,500 Scoville Heat Units.

Super Chile (cayenne variety) - This plant is short, spreading and very productive. It is perfect for growing in containers and pots. It has some serious heat to it. Heat - 36,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Aji Amarillo - This plant is a Peruvian variety and can reach 1.5m tall. You can get 50 - 100 fruits on just one plant. The chillies are around 15cm long  and have a strong flavour. Heat 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Tabasco - Fruits on this plant take a long time to mature but one plant can provide a generous supply of chillies and it makes a good conservatory variety. This chilli originates from Tobasco in Mexica and is best known for its use in the famous hot sauce. Heat - 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Aji Lemon Drop - Plants reach 1.5m with fruits maturing in approx 100 days after transplanting. As this variety gains in popularity it is becoming much easier to get hold of. It has a fiery nature and lemon flavour. Heat - 30,000 to 50,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Ring of Fire - This plant is quick to mature so is a great variety to choose, offering early heat and a heavy yield. Great in curries and Thai dishes but too much of this chilli and you will find out how it got its name!! Heat - 70,000 to 80,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Birdseye - This chilli is quite difficult to germinate so more for the experienced or serious grower and it is very late to mature. If you are  after the searing heat found in these small but very fiesty chillies it is worth growing.  Heat - 100,000 to 175,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Piri Piri - This tiny, flaming chilli is called "pepper pepper" in Swahili, which translates to piri piri.

Heat - 100,000 to 225,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Scotch Bonnet - This Chilli originates from the Caribbean. Fruits are late to mature on a short bushy plant. At maturity both the red and yellow varieties are strong and fiery. Heat - 100, 000 to 300,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Orange Habanero - These plants are easy to grow, medium sized and bushy, requiring a long growing season for the fruits to reach maturity at around 5cm long. Fruity and fiery, the wrinkly lantern-shaped orange chilli makes a great sweet chilli sauce. Heat - 150,000 to 350,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Habanero "Hot Chocolate" - Chillies mature on large bushes with woody stems. They can be difficulty to germinate from seed. It has a rich flavour with a hefty kick. Heat - 325,000 to 425,000 Scoville Heat Units. 

Naga Jolokia - This chilli can be tricky to grow and needs a temperature of 28 - 32 degrees C to germinate. It is a long thin pepper originating from India and is a variety that is on the top list of explosive chillies. Heat - 855,000 Scoville Heat Units.

Bhut Jolokia - According to the Guinness Book of Records this Chilli is officially the world's hottest, although others have rated higher in unofficial tests. It originates from the north-east of India. It is advisable to wear gloves when handling the super hot varieties. Heat - 1,001,304 Scoville Heat Units.

Dorset Naga - Developed by making selections from Naga Morich (another scotcher), this fruity chilli reached 1,598,000 SHU in a trial on a Gardener's World programme in Oct 2006. Heat - 923,000 to 1,598,000 Scoville Heat Units.

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Companion Planting

Companion planting is planting different plants together to deter pests from attacking plants.

Here listed are a few plants that can be beneficial to plant together.

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